Pisa is the Pits

Today, I got up before dawn to catch a very early bus-train connection to Pisa. I won’t dwell too much on the details but, Pisa is the pits. Really. Its dirty and has few buildings with character. The train station is on the opposite end of town and it is a very long walk to see the infamous Leaning Tower of Pisa.

When you go through Pisa, which I hope you never have to, you walk though some pretty icky and smelly parts of town and then bam! There is this football field with three buildings on the lawn, looking totally out of place. A duomo, of course, a cathedral (surprise!) and the Leaning Tower. That’s it. Needless to say, I spent about two hours in this little town. I do not recommend it as a destination. Let me do you a favor and save you a trip; take my photo of the tower and keep it for yourself and just say you have been there. Enough said.

When I returned to Florence, I was determined to find the Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella. I read an article in Smithsonian Magazine before I left for Italy about this little secret place, not far from the train and bus stations. It used to be a convent and now it is a museum of sorts illustrating the history of herbal remedies, perfumes and other natural elixirs to cure what ever ails you-- some recipes dating as far back as the 900‘s.

When you walk inside, you are instantly surprised. Immediately, your nose fills with the smells of roses, lavender and citrus blends. It’s wonderful. Then, if you look up, there is a huge domed ceiling, completely outlined in gold and ancient frescoes. Giant apothecary cabinets line the walls with bottles of every combination possible to cure a cold, cellulite, sharpen your memory or improve your sex life. I spent some time (and a few dollars) with the herbalist there. Olive oil, soaps and fabulous teas were just part of what she showed me. I took a few photos and have included them below.

If you go to Florence, this little haunt is a must-see. It is hidden, but easy to find once you get your bearings. Once out of the train station on the bus mall, go right then right again to via della Scala. Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella is number 16, black iron doors, across from Mail Boxes Etc., conveniently enough.

Going to Verona or Perugia tomorrow, not sure which yet. My day will start very early as the train rides to either place are at least 2 hours and I want to see a few things before the heat sets in. Yes, in case you were wondering, it is still hot…seriously, hot. But I’m not bitchy! Whoooppeee!!!